Location: Choose a place that is close to where you spend most of your time outside (such as a deck or patio). It is important that the location receive plenty of sunlight ( 6 hours minimum ). If it does not, it will be difficult to grow aquatic plants. However, if your pond does receive all day sun, you might have an abundance of green algae during the early conditioning period. A little bit of light shade in the afternoon is a desirable characteristic. Also, consider the routine chores such as feeding the fish, checking the water level, cleaning the filter, etc. Will your pond be in a convenient location for these tasks? You will also need a source of electricity for the pump and perhaps for some lighting.

Size: In many ways the larger the pond, the better. A large pond is easier to stabilize with regard to the plant / fish ratio. Also a large pond looks better in a more spacious area, whereas a small pond might look more like a "puddle". If you do decide to choose a smaller pond, consider locating it next to your house , then develop a "room effect" by landscaping around it creating a sitting area. The minimum size should be no less than 3' x 5' and at least 18" inches deep. The depth is important for over wintering your fish. There must be an area in the pond that will not freeze, to allow the fish a place to hibernate.

Pond Liner: There are two choices in liners, flexible or rigid. The advantage to the flexible liner is that you can change the size and shape to suit you. With a rigid liner, it is necessary to dig out the exact shape of the liner, adding extra work. The flexible liner also allows for the creation of "steps" along the side to situate plant containers ( a nice feature because aquatic plants need different water depths to flourish ). The important thing to remember when buying a liner, is don't skimp on quality!!! Go ahead and buy the heaviest liner, even though it costs more ( you'll be glad you did ). To calculate the size liner you need use the formula below.

Length + (2 x depth ) + 2 feet = length
Width + (2 x depth ) + 2 feet = width

Remember most liner is available cut off a roll, in widths of 5.5', 10', 15', 20' and 25'. Plan your excavation accordingly.

Installation: Before you start digging, take a garden hose to outline the shape of the pond. Take your time and carefully measure and shape your outline. Use a shovel to cut a shallow trench all the way around the inside of the hose ( this is to mark a template, so that you can remove the hose ). To help with the digging, use a tiller to loosen the soil, which will make shoveling easier. Don't forget to add a shelf around the edge for placing the plants ( the shelf is just a step down 8 - 10 inches from the edge about 10 - 14 inches wide ). Make sure the edges of the pond are level ( use a string and a level to check ) if they are not, there will be an exposed area of liner above the water line. To avoid the exposed liner along the edge, dig a rock ledge 4 - 8 inches deep and about 6 - 8 inches wide adjacent to the plant shelf. This will allow you to place the rock edging into the water completely hiding the liner and allow the water level to fluctuate several inches without exposing the liner. See detail below.

Unfold the liner and center over your excavation, then place a stone on each corner.

Begin filling the pond with water, this will cause the liner to conform to the shape that you have dug out. As the water level rises pull the liner to remove wrinkles and make folds as necessary taking care to make folds away from the primary viewing area. Place rocks on the rock ledge finishing the with a larger cap stone. Finish filling the pond with water. Adjust the overflow point by adding or removing sand from under the liner. Fold or trim any excess liner at this time. Be careful not to trim to much. Take your time with this process, and you can completely hide the liner. Use wood mulch or river gravel around the stones to add a finished look.

If you plan to add a waterfall, use the soil from the excavation and create a flattened mound with a groove where you would like the waterfalls to flow. Place a piece of the liner over the mound, and let it overlap into the pond. Use 3" double side seam tape to connect the two liners. An excellent way to start a waterfalls is with a spillway. Spillway are available in varying widths for different effects. Place spillway on top of the liner and build your waterfalls in the groove starting at the bottom and working up to the spillway. Connect a pump from the pond to the waterfall to check the waterfalls. Make sure all water is contained on the liner and most flows over the rocks you have selected. Make adjustments as required. ( it's important that any flowing water be contained with liner ).. Experiment with different size rocks and varying the height for different effects. After you are happy with the look and you do not have any leaks turn it off and let the stones dry. Seal the waterfalls with a black expanding waterfalls foam. The black color is easy to disgise. The foam will expand and fill the voids behind the rocks and bind the stone together. After several hours trim dried foam and restart the pump. Once again check for any water being diverted off the liner and correct if necessary. Cover with stone or trim exposed liner as required. Enjoy

Pumps & Filters: This can be a somewhat controversial area. There are many different pumps and filters to choose from. The main reason to have a water pump is to increase the amount of oxygen in the pond. In order to oxygenate the water efficiently, water needs to be disrupted. A waterfall or fountain causes splashing and rippling of the water, this splashing provides more surface area for the exchange of carbon dioxide and oxygen.

The reasons for having a filter include removing debris such as fish and plant waste, removing toxins from the water such as ammonia and nitrites, removing nutrients from the water such as nitrates and phosphates. Three processes, mechanical, biological and vegetative. Many say a pond can be balanced naturally and while this is true if the fish load is very light, most ponds do not fit into this catagory. A natural pond has a constant exchange of water. We are dealing with a closed system with a limited exchange of water. Good filtration is a must if you are to be happy with your pond. Generally speaking the more fish in the pond the better the filtration must be.

Mechanical filtration is the physical removal of dirt and debris from the pond water. This can be accomplished in a multitude of ways depending on the pond size and type of pump used. Biological filtration is the removal of waste products in the water produced by fish, uneaten food, decaying plant material, etc. Waste products in the water release a form of ammonia which is lethal to fish. Fortunately nature takes care of the problem by oxygen loving bacteria that convert the ammonia into less lethal chemicals called nitrites and nitrates.

These nitrites and nitrates become plant food! Vegetative filtration occurs as the plants convert nitrates and carbon dioxide (another harmful fish bi-product) into energy. The plants then release oxygen and nitrogen. This collective process is called the nitrogen cycle, and it can be helped along by maintaining the correct balance of plants and fish, and boosting the amount of oxygen in the water.

Introducing Plants & Fish: After filling the pond with water, there comes an almost irresistible urge to go out and buy lots of fish. A little self control is highly suggested before giving in to this impulse. There are things that should be done in order to develop functioning nitrogen cycle.

First, if you are on a municipal water system, there is chlorine in the water. Although chlorine evaporates in time, there are products available that will remove it.

Add plenty of aquatic plants to your pond. Plants will maintain water quality, and provide places for fish to hide so that they will feel more secure and be less "stressed". Water lilies and water hyacinths help to shade excess sunlight, which can cause an algae "bloom". Your pond dealer can help you in selecting suitable aquatic plants.

After adding the plants, it's all right to introduce a few fish (just a few!!!) By starting with just a few fish, you will be giving your pond a chance to stabilize. Gradually over a six to eight week period you can add more.

Hardy aquatic snails are a welcome addition to help keep algae in check. Also consider adding tadpoles, they eat algae and debris, and make interesting residents when they grow up.

Final Touches: To really get the most from your pond, consider adding low voltage lighting around the landscaping for night time enjoyment (your frogs will also appreciate the small insects this will attract). A bench near the water's edge will provide a relaxing sitting area to enjoy you own oasis.

Your pond will probably become your garden's best accent. You will also notice an increase in wildlife in your garden. Birds, dragonflies, butterflies, and other wildlife will all be attracted to your new water garden.

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